Puerta del Sol filled with candles on Wednesday night after the death of Maricarmen Abascal, the 87-year-old whose eviction from her Madrid flat became the symbol of Spain's housing protest movement. For anyone planning a trip to the capital right now, her story explains why the city centre looks different than usual — and why 11 November could disrupt travel plans nationwide.
Maricarmen was carried out of her Retiro-district apartment on a stretcher on 23 September, after the building changed hands in 2020 and four eviction attempts. She had lived there for nearly 70 years. She spent the following two weeks in Madrid's Gregorio Marañón Hospital and never made it back, dying on Wednesday despite a last-minute agreement with the owner, Urbagestión, that would have let her return under an eight-year rent deal. The Madrid Tenants' Union called the outcome 'a totally avoidable situation after a torturous process'.
The images of her eviction sparked demonstrations across Spain and a protest camp in Puerta del Sol that is still standing. When news of her death spread through the tents by phone on Wednesday night, crowds gathered around candles in the square, some marched on the Congress building until police stopped them on Calle de San Jerónimo, and a second vigil formed on Calle Sainz de Baranda outside her former home, where one handwritten note read: 'Thank you for changing Spain'. A small memorial of flowers and photographs now sits opposite the Madrid regional government headquarters.
The political fallout has been swift. Parliament's rejection of emergency housing measures — including tighter eviction restrictions and automatic tenancy renewals — pushed Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez to call a snap general election for 29 November, two years ahead of schedule. Spain's main trade unions and housing groups have now called a general strike against the housing crisis for Wednesday 11 November.
Why should travellers care? Puerta del Sol is Madrid's central plaza and a constant backdrop for visitors — expect tents, placards and periodic demonstrations there and around the Gran Vía and Congress area for the foreseeable future, plus possible transport disruption on strike days. Larger rallies are likely as the 29 November vote approaches. Peaceful protest is the norm, but it's worth checking local news and metro service alerts before heading out, especially around major demonstration dates.
