Paris shifts gears in autumn. The café terraces empty out, the museum lights come on, and the city stacks its calendar with serious exhibitions. October 2026 is a particularly strong month, with a handful of shows that will still be running into the new year — meaning a half-term break or a winter city break both work.

The headline act is at the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris, where Kerry James Marshall gets his first-ever French retrospective. The Histories gathers 70 works, eight of them made specially for the show, tracing his career-long insistence on putting the Black figure at the centre of Western art history. There are nods to Manet and Seurat throughout, which makes the Paris setting feel earned rather than incidental. It runs until 24 January 2027, tickets from €17.

Across the city, the Bourse de Commerce marks 200 years since the invention of photography with Remember Me: more than 700 works by over 70 artists, from early daguerreotypes to Wolfgang Tillmans, Lee Miller and Cindy Sherman, arranged so you plot your own route rather than follow a timeline. Barbara Kruger's installation in the rotunda gives the show its name. Also on until mid-January.

Elsewhere: the Grand Palais asks whether Cézanne really deserves the "father of modern art" label (Cézanne and Us, until 17 January); the Musée du Luxembourg shows nearly 150 of Warhol's line drawings, a side of the Pop artist most people have never seen (until 10 January); and the Musée Jacquemart-André stages the first major French retrospective of Venetian Mannerist Tintoretto, with 40 rare paintings and works on paper (until 24 January).

Fans of Monet have two reasons to celebrate in 2026, a century after his death. The Musée Marmottan Monet pairs him with David Hockney and a century of landscape painters in between (until 31 January), while the Musée de l'Orangerie remains the perennial essential — its eight curved Water Lilies canvases, donated to France after WWI as a gesture of peace, still soak up natural light exactly as Monet intended. Entry is €12.50, closed Tuesdays.

For something different, La Galerie Dior near the Champs-Élysées mixes couture history with the founder's gallerist past — archival sketches, original looks and the art and botany that inspired them — from €12. And the Musée Rodin, a short walk from the Eiffel Tower, keeps its sculpture garden and rocaille interiors as a quieter counterpoint to the blockbuster queues (closed Mondays).

Practically speaking, this is a dense list for a long weekend. Pick two or three big shows and book timed tickets online — the Marshall, Bourse de Commerce and Grand Palais exhibitions will be the busiest. The Musée National Picasso's La Collection (€16, until March 2027) makes an easy add-on if you're in Le Marais, where smaller galleries like Perrotin and David Zwirner are free to wander. Several museums close on Mondays or Tuesdays, so check before you build your itinerary.

Who's this for? Anyone who wants a city break with substance: culture-heavy travellers, art students, or couples who like pairing a morning exhibition with a long lunch. October brings thinner crowds than summer and proper excuses for dim bistros afterwards.